| Although it was ruled by various dynasties,
Bangalore's chief historical sights date back to the 18th-century
reign of Hyder Ali and his son Tipu Sultan, "the
Lion of Mysore," who put up the most spirited resistance
to British imperialism. But more than anything, Bangalore
is about experiencing an Indian city that brims with bars,
restaurants, clubs, and positive energy -- a great place
for walking, window-shopping and, at night, letting your
hair down. The Garden City also has lovely parks, some
of which date back over 2 centuries, of which the botanical
gardens at Lal Bagh are the most impressive.
Set off early for Bugle Hill, site of the Bull Temple
(sanctum timings daily 7:30am-11:30am and 4:30-8:30pm).
Built by the city's original architect, Kempe Gowda,
this 16th-century black-granite statue of Nandi (Shiva's
sacred bull) literally dwarfs his "master,"
and is kept glistening by regular applications of coconut
oil. Nearby is a Ganesha temple (Sri Dodda Ganapathi),
which houses an enormous statue of the elephant-headed
deity made of 100 kilos of rank-smelling butter. Apparently
this idol is remade every 4 years, and the butter distributed
to devotees as prasad (blessed food).
Picnicking with the family and cricketing with the
boys are popular pastimes in Cubbon Park (Cantonment),
laid out in 1864 by the Mysore engineer, Richard Sankey.
Today many visitors come to view the lovely buildings
that surround the park as well as to visit the Government
Museum and Venkatappa Art Gallery (tel. 080/2286-4483;
Tues-Sun 10am-5pm; Rs 4/8¢), which focuses on sculpture.
It contains works from Khajuraho, Bihar, and Madhya
Pradesh dating back to the 10th century, Buddhist figures
from the 4th- and 5th-century Gandhara school, and Hoysala
carvings from Belur, Halebid, and Hampi -- not that
these are really a match for the real thing, seen on
location. While in the vicinity, take a walk or drive
past Vidhana Vidhi to admire its Greco colonial-style
buildings, including India's largest state headquarters,
Vidhana Soudha, Karnataka's State Legislature and Secretariat
building (no entry allowed), to marvel at what is termed
"neo-Dravidian" architecture. Its blend of
styles from across India is capped by one of India's
most recognizable symbols -- the four-headed gold lion
of Ashoka, India's celebrated early Buddhist king. Over
the entrance, a gleaming gold-lettered sign bears the
somewhat optimistic slogan GOVERNMENT WORK IS GOD'S
WORK. Across the road from the Vidhana Soudha, fringing
Cubbon Park, is Karnataka's two-story High Court building,
or Attara Kacheri, an attractive design with red bricks
and monumental Corinthian columns.
If it's a real garden you're after, head straight for
the botanical gardens at Lal Bagh (daily 9am-6pm; Rs
2/4¢), conceived and laid out by Sultan Hyder Ali
in 1760. His son, Tipu, expanded the gardens further,
planting exotic plants from Persia, Kabul, Turkey, and
Mauritius (tropical and subtropical species) over 96
hectares (240 acres). Highlights include the Lawn Clock
and the British-built glasshouse, structurally based
on London's Crystal Palace. After visiting the gardens,
be sure to pop in for a meal at the Bangalore lunch
institution, Mavalli Tiffin Rooms, a short distance
from the entrance.
Tipu Sultan's Summer Palace (daily
9am-5pm; Rs 2/4¢), built toward the end of the
18th century entirely from timber, is a relic in a city
committed more to progress than to preservation. It
has a somewhat sophomoric exhibition with extensive
text about Tipu's life and military conquests as well
as those of his father, Hyder Ali Khan. Next door is
an enormously active 17th-century temple, built by the
Wodeyar kings; and just north are the ruins of Bangalore
Fort, largely destroyed during the Anglo-Mysore War.
Rejuvenation City: Tip-Top Spas
Prompted by the emergence of an overstressed, well-heeled
workforce, Bangalore has a number of well-known luxury
and medical spas. Besides The Spa at Leela Palace Kempinski
(tel. 080/2521-1234) in the city, two luxury spas lie
about an hour outside Bangalore. The Golden Palms Spa
(tel. 080/2371-2222), owned by Bollywood director Sanjay
Khan, is part of an upmarket resort that not only provides
routine spa treatments, but is the spot for discreet
cosmetic surgery and anti-aging treatments. Angsana
Oasis Spa and Resort (tel. 080/2846-8893; www.angsana.com)
offers spa packages from 205€ ($255) double for
2 nights (includes accommodations, breakfasts, and one
traditional Thai massage). The attitude toward pampering
is more laid-back. Neither of these spas will restrict
your diet or ban smoking or alcohol; in contrast, Soukya
International Holistic Health Centre (in Whitefield,
30 min. from Bangalore; tel. 080/2794-5001 through -5004;
www.soukya.com) is a medical spa that focuses on therapeutic
and complementary therapies. Run by Dr Isaac Mathai,
his nutritionist wife Suja, and a battery of experts,
this is a nonsmoking, alcohol- and meat-free spa where
everything is low fat, low salt, low spice, and organic.
The focus is on individually created "holistic
wellness programs" (from Hawaiian hot stone to
specialized Ayurvedic treatments) that strengthen the
body's immune system, including those belonging to some
rather famous people, like Fergie, Princess of York;
Archbishop Desmond Tutu; and healthy-living guru Andrew
Weil. Rates start at Rs 6,300 ($144) per day -- this
includes accommodations, meals, and medical evaluation
and assessment but not treatments.
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